A Definitive Guide to Modern Compact Cars

by Mark Lorenzana

The popularity of compact cars is on the rise. Skyrocketing oil prices and constantly-improving features of these cars are just a couple of the main reasons why buyers are grabbing compacts off the shelves. And nowadays compact cars are not only the choice because of their fuel efficiency and practicality, but also because of their affordable price and excellent value for money.

The compact car is defined as a car that is a tad smaller than medium-sized cars or sedans. The term compact car is mainly North American in origin, and in Europe, compacts are known as "small family cars".

Let’s go back a few years and see how today’s modern compacts came to be.

A brief history of compacts: European and US Market
After World War II, European manufacturers mainly featured two vehicle types: small cars or superminis and large sedans or super saloons. Some of these manufacturers discovered that a lot of middle class buyers wanted a larger version of the superminis, and this led to the creation of small family cars – the forerunner of today’s compact cars. The first successful line of makes and models that came out during this time are: Volkswagen Golf, Renault 5, Fiat Ritmo, Citroen GSA, and the Opel Kadett.

Although compact cars have been manufactured in the United States even before World War II, some consider the first modern compacts to have come out from the years 1958 to 1960, namely: the Studebaker Lark, Chevrolet Corvair, Ford Falcon and Plymouth Valiant.

Today, modern compact cars have generally smaller dimensions and they are more fuel efficient than their predecessors and even compared to today’s mid-sized cars—averaging anywhere from 20 to 50+miles per gallon.

Here are just a few things that you can expect from a modern compact car:

Back to basics
For the consumer who wants an affordable, no-frills compact, manufacturers (ranging from European to US to Japanese and Korean) offer basic models that cost around $10,000. Read: no power windows, no CD player, and no cruise control. For something that cheap, what can you expect? But these cars are efficient, reliable, and cheaper to operate.

Roomier options and Additional Performance
Customers who are looking for something with more options and features in addition to a roomier interior must be willing to shell out as much as $15,000 to $21,000. For those who might think that this is too steep a price for a compact, features like intelligent keyless entry, keyless ignition, Bluetooth, in-dash 6-CD changer with MP3 capability and satellite radio might change their minds.

And if it's flat-out performance you are looking for, there are compacts that bring as much as 263 horsepower in a package that boasts a snowboard-friendly cabin featuring fold down seats, which boosts interior room.

The Bottom Line
Compact cars should definitely be on the top of your list when shopping for that brand new or pre-owned car. Simply put, for those who are looking for a practical, fuel-efficient, and stylish vehicle, modern compact cars will certainly fit the bill.

We all know that good things come in small packages. But who would have known that in these hard times, compact cars could give you more bang for your dwindling buck?

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Trading In Your Old Cars

by Bianca Villares

The deal behind trading in used cars may seem simple enough. Head out to the car lot, show your used car to the dealer and ask for the trade-in price— the amount which the dealer will pay you for your vehicle. But if you want to get a fair deal out of your used car, you can’t afford to overlook some basic details.

Start by knowing what to expect from trading in your used car. The trade-in price is lower than the private-party price, which is what you hope to be able to sell your used car for to individual buyers. Understand that dealers must account for certain costs such as inspections and reconditioning, which makes the trade-in price cheaper. But then again, trading in your used car is faster and less stressful than selling it on your own.

Know what your used car is worth. Most people depend on used car values found on the internet or books which are accurate most of time—given that your vehicle is in good condition. The amount that the trade-in will bring actually depends on a number of things, such as vehicle history, mileage, running condition, paintwork, and interior. Any dealer would surely check these things to evaluate your vehicle’s trade-in price. Consider having a few minor repairs on your car if you wish to increase its value; cheap repairs can go a long way every so often. The curb appeal and general condition of your vehicle determines its actual worth, despite the values posted on the internet.

Find a dealer who’s looking for a vehicle model the same as your used car. This requires added research on your part, but it’s all worth the effort. Find out if your vehicle has a place in the product and inventory mix on the dealer’s lot. They won’t give much for your car if they have a number of vehicles the same model as yours parked in their lot. But if you happen to offer a model to a dealer when they’re running low, they might step up the bargain.

If you are in a hurry to replace your current car, then trading it in is one of your best options. But like any investment, you should look out for your interests by getting a good deal. Prepare your vehicle and arm yourself with as much information as possible before trading in your used car.

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CIF Fees Now Covering PSC and Customs Clearance

IBC Japan has recently expanded their CIF Fees to cover PSC and customs clearance! Now you get full coverage on the following:

FOB Fee (Japan)

MAF Cleaning (Japan)

MAF & LTSA Fees (Japan)

Odometer Inspection (Japan)

Ocean Freight (Japan)

Maritime Insurance (Japan)

Customs Clearance (NZ)

Port Service Charge - PSC (NZ)

Transport to yard or compliance center (NZ)

To learn more about IBC Japan’s expanded CIF Fee coverage, email them at csc@ibcjapan.co.jp or visit their official website http://www.ibcjapan.co.jp.

With IBC Japan, you get the best value for your money!

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New Zealand’s MAF: A Beginner's Guide to Used Car Inspection

by Guile Canencia

Used cars -- especially Japanese used cars -- are popular in New Zealand. As a matter of fact, New Zealand ranks among the top ten destinations for pre-owned vehicles from the Japanese domestic market. Well, if you’ve been a used car exporter for some time now, you probably know about the tons of clearances needed to get your vehicle inside Kiwi country. As for the uninitiated, you might want to know a few basic things about this little thing called MAF Clearance and how it relates to the importation of used cars into New Zealand.

What is MAF? MAF stands for the Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry and basically it’s the government agency in New Zealand that deals with agriculture, forestry and biosecurity. You might be wondering -- what do they have to do with used cars? Well, Kiwis are a bit particular about what stuff gets in their borders, especially when it can affect the country’s main export industry -- agriculture. These imported products (which include used cars) might carry potentially harmful animals, plants or substances. The MAF officials usually call these risk goods.

Pass or Fail? MAF has set specific guidelines regarding the entry of used cars in New Zealand but basically there are only two things you need to remember. First, the car has to be given a MAF biosecurity clearance in order to get in. Second, if the car earns a failing grade in the eyes of the MAF inspector, it has to go through treatment at a decontamination facility or else go back wherever it came from. Bottom line is: if you’re clean you’re in. If you’re not you’re out.

O Where Art Thou Contaminants? What exactly do those MAF guys look for when they inspect the vehicle? First on the list are animals or animal parts, most especially those that are small and a bit tricky to find (insects are prime examples, if your car harbors them then it’s decon time for your car). Plants or plant products are a no-no. Even a small piece of twig will get your car into trouble. Lastly, they look for soil, water or any agent that may potentially carry a contaminant.

Pre or Post? Keep in mind that the inspection can be done during pre-shipment (in the exporting country) or post-shipment (upon arrival in New Zealand). If you want to do it before shipment, make sure it’s ten days prior to leaving port. If you want to do it upon arrival, inspection must be done within 12 hours of discharge at the port of entry or within 12 hours of being devanned from a container.

Can I See Some Identification? Make sure your car is accompanied with documentation that contains identification (chassis number), make/model, origin, shipment details and sufficient contact information of both the consignor and consignee. If your car has undergone pre-shipment inspection, the official inspection clearance must be included, too.

Parting Shot. Knowledge is power. But learning the basics alone won’t always get you out of a tight situation. So do your homework. Learn more about MAF any way you can. You never know, a little information can make all the difference.

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IBC Japan Brings You Quality New Vehicles Direct From Thailand!

IBC Japan continues to give you new sources of export-ready vehicles! Now they are offering you new vehicles direct from Thailand!

• Quality new vehicles straight from the manufacturers!
• Featuring new Toyota, Honda, Nissan, Mitsubishi, Mazda, Isuzu units and more!
• * Only 2 to 4 weeks order processing!
  
  

2008 Toyota Hilux Vigo	2008 Toyota Fortuner	2008 Toyota Yaris (Sedan)
2008 Honda CR-V	2008 Nissan Navarra	2008 Honda Accord

More than 30 new models to choose from, representing most major manufacturers.

For more inquiries, email IBC Japan at csc@ibcjapan.co.jp.

* Depending on availability; lead time excludes delivery to destination port.

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Don't Tread Lightly: A closer look at your vehicle's tires

by Mark Lorenzana

What is the least appreciated part of a vehicle? A good answer would be the tires.

Most people don’t give much thought to their tires until it’s too late-- until they fail. And when tires fail, it could mean just two things: either you get a minor inconvenience that might involve getting stuck in traffic, missing work, while putting on your spare, or a scenario that could be much worse – a life-threatening accident.

If you own a vehicle, perhaps it’s a good idea to give more importance to your tires. Be sure to check the condition of the tires you are currently using and look out for any defects or faults. Check the spare, too.

Or better yet, continue reading this article. It will delve more deeply on safety issues concerning vehicle tires.


Looking out for serious defects in your car tires.

This should serve as a warning for the driving public. There might be hidden defects in tires that could cause drivers to lose control of their vehicles on the road.

It is not enough for tires to look good, be properly inflated, and have a good amount of tread. It’s a good idea to check the age of your tires.

Because tires are the most under appreciated part of a vehicle, drivers often neglect how old their tires are as long as they still look good. This might be true especially for spare tires—some could be up to a decade old or more. A very old spare tire, believe it or not, could deteriorate to the point of having its interior rotted. One can just imagine the disastrous effects this could lead to when driving at extremely high speeds.

In tires, the rubber materials that hold the belts together will eventually degrade and lose its elasticity. It will get to the point where the tire can no longer hold together. Research shows that tires six years or older tend to break down. And it’s not just the spare tire in your trunk that can be dangerous. Even tires bought from the shop or the showroom can be just as dangerous – who knows, these might have been sitting in a shelf for more than a decade waiting to be sold.


Avoiding accidents brought about by old, faulty tires.

Many vehicle makers now put warnings in their car manuals against using tires that are more than six years old. Some experts, however, advocate for expiration dates to be stamped on the tires not unlike other consumer products like milk.

The tire industry disagrees, stating that expiration dates will only give consumers a false sense of security. They stress that this might lead consumers to use the tires and wear them down to the nub as long as the products are still within the expiration date.

Tire makers say proper maintenance is the key to safe tires and that there is no reliable data that tires become dangerous after six years.

How to make sense of all these contradictory views by the experts? Here is an important tip for the consumer: on the outer wall of the tire, the side that faces away from the car, are a series of digits and letters. The last series of four numbers actually shows the tire’s date of manufacture. For instance, if it shows 1202, this means that the 12th week of 2002 is the tire’s date of manufacture. By checking the date of manufacture, you can determine on your own the age of the tire. You can then decide if it’s time to buy new ones.

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Hybrid Cars: Deal or No Deal?

by Guile Canencia

In the past few years, technology has given us a cavalcade of “green” cars — vehicles that are supposedly more environment-friendly than your traditional set of wheels. One of these is the hybrid car, which is, simply put, a vehicle that runs on both an electric motor and a gasoline-fueled motor. A few examples include Chevrolet Tahoe, Toyota Prius, Ford Escape Hybrid and Honda Insight, among others.

These vehicles have enjoyed increased popularity over the years and as its technology continues to evolve, hybrid cars have gained some new supporters even as it tries to convert its detractors. To better understand what the debate is all about, let’s take a closer look at the pros and cons of hybrid cars. Here are the advantages:

Hybrid cars are fuel-efficient. You get more miles per gallon when you’re driving a hybrid car. Hybrid cars only use up about 25% less fuel compared to traditional gas-motored cars. If you’re a certified drive junkie, hybrids let your pockets breathe more easily.

They’re friendly to the environment. Plug-in electric cars and hybrid cars have the lowest carbon emissions among today’s vehicles, with the latter being the more practical. If you don’t want to feel guilty about contributing to global warming, hybrids are for you.

Flexibility. You can use your electric motor for low speeds and when you’re ready to blaze through the highway, your gas motor will do the job for you. In both cases, you’re not expending too much energy, at least not more than what you usually need.

What about the disadvantages?

Obviously, the cost factor. The problem with new or developing technology is that it’s never cheap. Hybrid cars are no exception. True, the demand for hybrid cars has increased since their introduction but prices today are still a bit high compared to non-hybrid cars.

Complexity. The more complex a system gets, the more its potential problems will be. Yes, all cars eventually go to the shop for repairs but hybrid cars, with their complex parts and all, may need far more specific repair needs and thus, more expensive repairs.

When buying a car, it’s always advisable to make a cost-benefit analysis. Do the good things outweigh the bad stuff? Is it worth it in the long run? As for hybrid cars — is it a deal or no deal? Perhaps for some motorists today, it’s too early to tell at this point. One thing’s for sure though — things are only going to get better in the future. You can count on that.

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Buying Used Cars vs. Leasing

by Bianca Villares

With depreciation hanging like a dark cloud over new car purchases, cost-saving deals provide smart alternatives to eager car buyers.

Car buyers now have the option to either buy a used car or lease any vehicle without having to worry about losing the car’s value over the years. Though both alternatives lessen the financial cost, there are big differences that car buyers may consider advantageous or disadvantageous, depending on their situation and needs.

Decide which alternative is best for you. Here’s a brief comparison between buying a used car and leasing.


Cost and Ownership. Buying a used car is the cheapest way to own a vehicle since you avoid the depreciation hit. Monthly payments are worth the cost because you are eventually guaranteed vehicle ownership. On the other hand, monthly payments on leasing won’t get you equity since you have to return the vehicle by the end of the lease term. If you decide to buy the car at the end of the lease-term, you would have to pay a substantial amount which would cost you more than if you had bought the vehicle initially.

Penalties. You won’t have to worry about penalties when buying a used car. Once the vehicle ownership has been transferred to your name, you won’t have to answer to anyone as long as you keep your end of the bargain in pay offs. If you drive extensively, you may want to rethink on getting a lease since most leasing companies charge a penalty fine upon exceeding the annual mileage limit—12,000-15,000 miles. Breaking a lease early would also cost you a hefty early termination fee.

Vehicle Condition. An important part of any used car purchase is to make sure that its title is clear by obtaining the complete vehicle history. Checking the vehicle’s physical condition is also necessary; otherwise buying a used car could potentially waste your money if you don’t do your research. In most countries, it is the leasing company’s responsibility to take proper action in order to get redress if you happen to lease a vehicle that turns out to be a lemon.

Warranty and Insurance. A pre-owned vehicle usually has little coverage, limited to only a couple of months. Insurance is cheap for used cars and will depend mostly on the type of coverage suited for you. A good deal for leased cars would include “gap insurance” or waives “gap liability.” Through this, you’ll be saved from paying the difference between what you owe under the lease and what the dealer can recover on the vehicle if ever it is stolen or totaled.

Maintenance and Repairs. Since used cars have limited warranty, certain maintenance on your purchased vehicle could be more expensive. By thoroughly checking the used cars’ history and condition, you could minimize spending unnecessary repair costs. Lease agreements specify who pays for maintenance and repairs during the lease term, but most charge you to fix the excess wear and tear when you return the vehicle at lease-end.


Cheap options could work well if you choose the one which works best according to your needs, wants, and budget. If you want to own a vehicle without having to spend much, then buying a used car is your best option. But if you feel like driving a different car every few years without having to go through the hassle of reselling it, lease a car. Between buying used cars and leasing, it’s a matter of weighing the pros and cons.

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Manual vs. Automatic transmission: Which vehicle should you choose?

by Mark Lorenzana

While manual cars are not as popular as they used to be (owing to the rising demand for automatic cars especially in the Americas and Europe), they still account for a substantial percentage of annual car sales (both used and new). Perhaps the reason for this is the advantages of a manual transmission over an automatic, which are as follows:


Manual Transmission

Lower base price, repair, and maintenance costs. Manual vehicles generally have a lower base price than automatics. On the average, a manual costs $1000 dollars lesser than an automatic. When it comes to repair and maintenance costs, manual transmission appears to be more superior. The clutch, which is one of the most expensive and labor intensive components of a car when it gets damaged, is more easily maintained in manual than in automatic transmission. And any mechanic can tell you that working on a manual transmission is much easier than working with automatic gear boxes. So the repair costs for automatics are significantly higher. In the long run, manuals require less service, thus making maintenance cheaper.

Gives higher gas mileage. Even if a manual car is relatively more difficult to drive, it doesn’t eat up too much fuel, consuming 5%-15% lesser fuel depending on road conditions and driving habits. Automatics, even though easier to use, ultimately burn a lot more gas than their manual counterparts.

Gives better control. The basic premise is that manual transmission allows for better control of the car. With a manual, you can keep the power of the engine right where you want it, based on the conditions of the road. And no matter how sophisticated the electronics, automatic transmission will never be smarter than the human brain that’s actually driving the car. Simply put, manual transmission gives you full control with your gears but with an automatic your choices are limited between two pedals. Manual transmission gives you more freedom when it comes to maneuvering on steep hills or curves. It also allows you to combat tough weather conditions more comfortably.


With all these advantages of a manual transmission notwithstanding, here are the reasons why automatics have been very popular nowadays:


Automatic Transmission

Ease of use. Generally, automatic transmissions are easier to operate. There are only two pedals, so it's almost like driving a go-kart. In a traffic jam, this is a big plus. Manuals are generally more tiring to drive in traffic, because of the need to use the clutch pedal.

Relatively safer. When driving an automatic, a driver will have his/her left foot free and both hands on the wheel. A manual requires a little too much concentration from the driver: the continuous pumping of the clutch pedal and the constant shifting of gears is enough to distract a novice driver.

The best of both worlds. With new options like manumatic transmissions, automatics may finally be gaining on manuals, combining ease of use with power. At the onset of the 21st century, this new transmission mode was introduced by automobile manufacturers. Manumatic transmission is basically an automatic transmission that possesses certain manual-transmission features. A good example is the luxury cars of Chrysler. It's definitely automatic, only that you have more control in shifting your gears.

Conclusion:
In the end, your decision shouldn’t be based only on the advantages and disadvantages. It ultimately boils down on your needs. For example, if you want maximum performance and superior control, you may want to consider getting a manual transmission. If you want ease of driving, especially in heavy traffic, automatic transmission is your best choice.

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6 Things You Should Know About Car Idling

by Guile Canencia

A lot of people, and I mean a lot of people, think that it’s perfectly alright to let their vehicles idle. Everyday, we see people leave their engines running while they’re picking up a snack at the fast food drive-thru or when they’re dropping their kids at school. A few even leave their cars idling for a few minutes in order to “warm up the engine” before going out for a drive. With the rising gasoline prices, many resort to car idling in order to save up on fuel. Unfortunately, car idling does more than harm than good in the long run. Here’s why:


Idling is never good for your car’s engine. An idle engine actually causes incomplete fuel combustion, which in turn causes undue accumulation of fuel residue that will ultimately damage vital engine parts like cylinders, spark plugs and even the car’s exhaust.

Idling is not an effective way to warm up your car, even in cold weather. Idling is never the best way to warm up your engine. The best way is surprisingly simple — drive. Start driving and the engine and essentially all your car’s moving parts will get all the warm-up they will ever need.

Idling wastes fuel. Say you’re idling your car for about fifteen minutes. For that amount of time, you have already consumed 0.20 liters of fuel and you haven’t moved an inch at all. Now multiply that with the latest gas prices and the number of times you’re idling your car in a day, in a year. The numbers won’t look good.

Turning off your car and starting again is actually better than idling. If you’re thinking that this will only cause unnecessary wear and tear, you worry too much. Restarting only causes minimal wear to your starter motor and battery, which are designed to withstand constant restarting activity in the first place.

Idling is hazardous to your health. Fact: Idle cars produce emissions that can cause various respiratory illnesses and even cancer. Exhaust components like ozone have been proven to aggravate asthma and lung and throat cancer. Pneumonia, emphysema and bronchitis have been linked to car emissions. The list goes on and on.

Idling is bad for the environment. Idling cars emit tons of carbon dioxide and other greenhouse gases into Earth’s atmosphere every year — just ask Al Gore. Unchecked carbon dioxide emissions have resulted to smog-filled cities in several countries. Fortunately for some select countries, environmental groups have convinced their governments to take “Stop Idling” campaigns seriously.


And it’s time we do, too. Car idling is bad for our health, the economy and the environment. So the next time you want to grab a cheeseburger, park your car instead of using the drive-thru. You’ll get better mileage that way.

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Ways to Bust Odometer Tampering

by Bianca Villares

Each year, more and more consumers find themselves victims of odometer tampering. With the used car market increasing in momentum, this illegal practice has become rampant over the years and has increased the risk for used car buyers.

Also known as “clocking” or “busting miles,” odometer tampering fools unsuspecting buyers into thinking that vehicles have a lower mileage than they actually do. This scam enables dealers to sell a used car more than its actual value. It is estimated that the illicit profit from odometer tampering sums to over billions of dollars lost per year.

Protect yourself from this fraudulent act. Here are some ways to help you determine signs of odometer tampering:


Mechanical Odometers

• Ask to see the vehicles’ mileage disclosure statement. Dealers are required to keep this record for 5 years.
• Compare the mileage on the odometer with the mileage indicated on the written disclosure statement. Also check if the mileage reading on the vehicle’s title, service records, oil change labels etc. for signs of alteration.
• Check if the odometer shows physical signs of tampering such as missing or loose screws, marks, and misaligned numbers.
• Scrutinize the vehicle for inconsistencies. See if the gas, brake, and clutch pedals correspond to the mileage shown on the odometer. Low-mileage vehicles should have its original parts, such as batteries, hoses and clamps, etc.
• A used vehicle with less than 20,000 km should have its original tires. If they were replaced, mismatched by size, type or brand, start asking why.
  

Digital Odometers

Digital odometers were created by car manufactures to slow down the problem of odometer tampering. But with the advent of technology, tampering a digital odometer is now very possible and even harder to detect for unsuspecting buyers.

Some digital odometers are designed to show visible signs if it has been tampered. Unusual characters such as asterisks, line of 9’s across the screen or missing display parts are some suspicious signs that used car buyers should look out for.

Do the math. A vehicle racks up about 20,000 to 30,000 km per year. If the mileage indicated on the odometer is inconsistent with the vehicle’s age, check out the car’s history.

Nothing is tamper-proof. Before you buy a used vehicle, it is always best to have an independent mechanic conduct a thorough inspection. The odometer is only a gauge in determining a vehicle’s condition. With a car’s complexity and sophistication, there’s a lot you can’t tell just by checking one of its parts.

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Petroleum vs. Diesel: Which vehicle is more suited for you?

by Mark Lorenzana

In the advent of rising oil prices, choosing a vehicle based on engine type (petrol or diesel) might prove to be a very wise decision. Each engine type has its own advantages and disadvantages and your decision on what to purchase might well boil down to the vehicle’s purpose (i.e. for city driving, for hauling cargo, for heavy duty use, etc).

Let us compare a petrol and diesel engine and see how they stack up against each other, based on the facts:

Fuel Economy
Diesel has a higher energy density than petrol. This means it takes more petrol to equal the power output of diesel, therefore diesel engines are more efficient per liter of fuel burned. Diesel units also use about one third as much fuel at idle as petrol units. Over the years, this advantage could be significant, especially if you drive a lot of kilometers.

Noise/Vibration
Despite huge improvements in engine-noise technology in the past 10 years, diesel engines are still generally louder and shake more than their petrol counterparts. At idle, the clatter and shake of a diesel vehicle is clearly noticeable, while it's tough to tell if the petrol engine is even running. Under low-speed acceleration, a diesel engine is still noisier.

Fuel Cost
Because diesel fuel is easier to refine, taking less time to get from crude oil to final product, it's usually priced lower than petrol.

Short-Term Maintenance
Regular maintenance on a diesel engine is more costly, due to larger volume of oil in the engine and because fuel filters and water separators must be serviced more often. Modern petrol engines have an even bigger advantage thanks to extended service intervals on spark plugs, engine oil, etc.

Long-Term Maintenance and Durability
A diesel engine has an expensive initial cost but the flip side is its excellent durability. The average petrol engine is good for only around 200,000 kilometers before needing a rebuild and isn't designed to constantly pull a heavy load. A diesel engine can go more than three times this amount before needing an overhaul.

Exhaust Smell/Emissions
Despite oil companies’ best efforts at producing diesel fuel with lower sulfur levels, burned diesel fuel still smells much worse than burned petrol. Beyond the smelly tailpipe, diesel lags behind petrol in the areas of Nitrogen Oxide emissions.

Power/Torque
Petrol engines have the advantage in horsepower, while diesel engines produce more torque. By design, petrol engines rev faster and are able to reach higher rpm peaks than diesel engines. This allows them to attain greater horsepower numbers.
However, for towing capacity and pulling force, a diesel owns a petrol engine. The torque advantage of a diesel vehicle is suited for pulling heavy loads, even up steep inclines. Because of the relatively high-compression ratio necessary to ignite the diesel fuel (17:1 diesel versus 9:1 petrol), a diesel engine makes all its torque and power low in the rev range.

Conclusion:
As stated in the beginning of this article, choosing between a petrol or diesel engine comes down to what you'll do with the vehicle and where you live. If you want quick, quiet acceleration, rarely haul a heavy load, and you don't plan on keeping the vehicle past 170,000 kilometers, you may want to consider a petrol engine. However, if you are going to use your vehicle for towing, value good fuel economy, and plan on racking up loads of mileage, diesel is for you.


About the Author:
Mark Lorenzana is a fulltime copywriter for IBC Japan. He has written a regular column and articles for various newspapers and moonlights as a copyeditor and freelance writer.

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